You’ve probably noticed that I have several posts mentioning
or focusing on Italian food. Little
wonder since this is one of my favorite cuisines! Since I got married I’ve tried to cook dishes
for my Italian father-in-law that would evoke memories of his childhood. He fondly recalls that his mother always
served polenta with pork sausages.
Conversely, he was not too fond of broccoli rabe. So where do I go to get my Italian food
fix? To my favorite Italian deli of
course!
A-1 Imported
Groceries and Italian Deli
It is in a residential neighborhood across the street from a
little park. The place looks unassuming;
the green, white and red awning above the door and their “A-1 Imported
Groceries” sign propped up from the roof. Outside are bags of mesquite charcoal and
potatoes.
A-1 Imported Groceries and Italian Deli |
Once you step inside you will be transported as your
olfactory sense gets inundated with the heavenly aromas of Italian food! An Italian deli should smell like an Italian
deli. What will bring you back down to
earth are the tidy stacks of goods on the shelves. You may think the interior of this
establishment looks old fashioned.
Rather, it is a classical neighborhood market where the workers are
friendly and people know one another. It
is gourmet without the frou-frou or the high prices. I meet with Emiddio Ungaro, the affable owner
of this 67 year-old store. He doesn’t
need to give me a tour of the store as I’ve been here innumerable times. Instead, he gave me a San Pedro history
lesson. A-1 was founded in 1947 by the
Mattera family, and is the only surviving deli from that era. Emiddio
told me that up until three or four years ago when the California
Department of Public Health cracked down on food stores, this place was even
more aromatic as house-made sausages and cheeses hung from the ceiling to dry
cure.
The produce section is to the right of the entrance. Emiddio told me he gets up at one o’clock in
the morning to order fresh produce every day.
They carry the usual onions, Roma tomatoes, cabbage, etc. But in addition to that, they have also have rapini, Savoy cabbage, escarole, cipollini, fennel bulbs, artichokes,
Italian eggplants and other produce typical of Italian cuisine. In the corner is an old-fashioned bread
cabinet which houses locally baked breads like ciabattas, rolls, and other
Neopolitan bread.
Add caption |
Old fashioned bread bins |
The freezer section has prepared foods like lasagna, tortellini, ravioli, stuffed artichokes,
Italian ices, spumoni , and eggplant
parmesan. But my favorite in this section is the sfogliatelle. Sfogliatelle is a shell-shaped pastry
made with a ridged, flaky crust and filled with sweet ricotta. The ones sold here are imported from Italy
and must be baked at 350°F for about 45 minutes. This would make a great dessert if you’re
having company!
Sfogliatelle |
Around the back of the store are shelves groaning with the
weight of Italian and American-bottled vintages. The larger bottles sit on the lower shelves -
just in case.
Inside the aisles is where you’ll find some of the gems of
this store. At the end of the first
aisle you’ll find Norwegian baccala,
whole dried cod which must be rehydrated and desalinated before being used. There are bags of breadcrumbs, polenta, semolina flour, beans and
pulses, and Arborio rice. There is one
aisle dedicated to pasta alone! You’ll find interesting and delightful shapes
such as creste di gallo, mezze penne
rigate, tagliatelle, pappardelle, orrechiette, fusillata caserreccia, gigli del
gargano, lumache rigate, stellette and pasta flavored with squid ink.
Dried baccala
Different shaped and flavored pasta
Another aisle has different kinds of tomato products: whole,
diced, crushed, sauce, paste, etc. A-1
has a wide selection of olive oil and balsamic vinegar, giardiniera, tonno, prepared gnocchi,
pasta sauce, muffuletta, crackers and
cookies, pizzelle, torrone, panettone,
chocolates, Jordan almonds, and other Italian staples.
Their refrigerator section holds American sodas as well as
San Pellegrino sparkling citrus beverages, fresh pizza dough, house-prepared
Italian favorites and bone-in skin-on as well as boned salt cod.
For me the deli department is the heart of the store. They have mortadella
with pistachios which is a large Bolognese sausage made with finely ground
pork, cubes of fat from the pork’s neck, and pistachios. Different kinds of salami cram this section
but our favorite is soppressata. Our other favorite cured meats are: capicola and pancetta. I buy domestic prosciutto for cooking, and the imported
kind for sandwiches or antipasto. Their
cheese selection is wonderful as I can get Parmigiano
Reggiano, fresh mozzarella, Pecorino
romano, asiago, provolone, fontina and gorgonzolaIa
any time. Of course, cured meats and
cheese are cut/sliced/grated to order. If
Victor is working the deli counter he’ll give you a slice of the meat and/or
cheese so you’ll know what you’re buying.
House seasoned olives |
A-1 receives their olives already cured but seasons them
in-house according to old family recipes.
They also sell prepared salads like pepperonata,
marinated eggplant slices, marinated mushrooms, olive salad, caprese, and more.
The deli also makes cold and hot sandwiches to order. The sign board is on the wall by the Meat
Department.
The Meat Department has the usual pork, chicken and
beef. In addition, they have lamb and
veal, and even a veal scallopini ready to be taken home to cook. I would have to say that this department’s
pride is their selection of house-made sausages of which they make six
kinds! One of the guys working there is
Ante. He makes cevapcici, a traditional Croatian sausage, which is one of their
bestsellers.
House-made sausages |
In addition to all of the wonderful things I’ve mentioned
above, A-1 also caters. Live far
away? Not a problem – they ship. Emiddio told me he regularly ships baccala to a woman in Louisiana as his
price is better than a store in Texas!
Their address is 348 West 8th St. in San Pedro,
CA. Their telephone number is
310-833-3430.
So what is your favorite Italian deli?